Kauai, part 3

For our last campsite, we headed to Haena Beach park, which was west of Anini Beach by about 10 miles or so.  Haena Beach is located at the very end of the main road on the island, and is close to the starting point for the Kalalau Trail along the Na Pali coast.

We set up camp, took a long walk on the beach to explore, and then went snorkeling. Tunnels Beach, one of the best snorkeling beaches on the island, just next door to Haena Beach, so we decided to check it out. We saw tons of tropical fish of all different shapes, sizes and colors.  With the help of a handy fish identification guide given to us at the snorkel rental, we identified Threadfin Butterflyfish, Yellow Tang, Hawaiian Spotted Toby, Redlip Parrotfish, Reef Triggerfish, Hawaiian Cleaner Wrasse, Bicolored Anthias, giant urchins, Bluestripe Butterflyfish, and to top it all off, a green sea turtle!  We swam with the turtle for a few minutes before it dove down into deep water.

 

We were lucky to get a great spot next to these palms for some hammock time

Beach treasures

The reef at Tunnels

Standing at Tunnels Beach, looking back at our campsite at Haena Beach (at the base of the tallest peak)

The next morning we woke at dawn, made coconut pancakes, loaded up our hiking packs, and set off for the start of the Kalalau trail, one mile down the road from our campsite. We planned to hike two miles along the trail to the first beach, Hanakapa'ai Beach, and then take a side trail two more miles into the Na Pali coast to see the Hanakapa'ai falls. The trail was steep and slick in places, but it afforded several breathtaking views of the Na Pali coastline as we hiked. We reached Hanakapa'ai Beach in about an hour.

Glimpses of the Na Pali coast from the Kalalau Trail

More stunning scenery

Hanakapa'ai Beach with hundreds (thousands?) of cairns in the foreground

Hanakapa'ai Beach was wide and sandy, and the ocean was pure turquoise. To the left, hundreds if not thousands of cairns built by hikers over the years. We discovered that there were several other people already making themselves at home on the beach with towels and snacks. Not a bad spot for lunch!

We turned inland here on a side trail up to the falls. The trail became a gentle uphill climb that crossed a stream several times.  We wound our way though lush, jungle terrain of bamboo, guava trees, and coffee trees, occasionally losing sight of where the trail was supposed to be, but always finding it within a few yards.

Heading inland from the beach

Gigantic bamboo thickets along the Trail

 Hanakapa'ai stream, which we crossed several times to get to the falls

After a couple of steep scrambles over muddy rocks, we finally arrived at the falls.  They seem to just pour out of the rock about 1,600 ft above a small pool.  There were several other hikers already enjoying the view, so we climbed over to a secluded spot for lunch.

 

Hanakapa'ai Falls

Our lunch spot was just a little to the right of where this image was taken

During lunch, Matt noticed a small ledge in the rock face about 100 ft up and to the left of the falls.  We decided to climb up to investigate the view from there.  As I was snapping pictures, Matt got down on one knee and proposed!  Of course the answer was yes.  We sat on the ledge for a little while and enjoyed the view of hikers and swimmers below.

The view from the ledge, two swimmers give a good idea of scale


We're engaged!

After climbing back down to the main pool, we paused for a few more pictures before heading back to the trailhead.  We paused at Hanakapa'ai beach once more for a quick snack, and to say hello to the family of cats that was making quite a good living off of passing hikers with snacks. 

Napping beach kitties

After getting back to camp, we celebrated the day with a bowl of mac and cheese and an early bedtime.  The next day, we took one last look at the Na Pali coast from Ke'e beach, just a few yards from the trailhead.  We vowed to come back again soon and backpack the entire Kalalau Trail.

The Na Pali coast from Ke'e Beach

After camping for 7 nights, we treated ourselves to a stay at the Westin in Princeville for two more nights on the island.  We put the hotel's many pools and hot tubs to good use on our last full day.  We did something similar when we went to Maui three years ago - camping for the most part but joining civilization again toward the end -- it's definitely a great way to come home rested and completely relaxed.

Even though we packed our 9 days on Kauai full of sights, there was still plenty left to explore.  We'll have to plan a trip back so that we can do some backpacking along the Na Pali coast.  We also want to try out sea kayaking and stand-up paddle boarding next time.  We can't wait to go back!